The best hot chocolate experience of my life, worship-worthy, occurred on a cold, rainy day on the rue de Rivoli in Paris. I was in search of art nouveau and respite. We had gotten soaked at Versailles, a surprise to all in July. I had heard about Angelina (formerly Rumpelmeyer’s), a Belle Epoque (1903) chocolate and pastry palace. The reviews talked about “faded glory”, Proustian memories of the past, and so on, but promised that the chocolat a l’africaine would change my life.
It did.
First of all, Angelina was gorgeous even then and is more so now. The classic mosaic floor, the hanging frosted flower-shaped lamps, the arched galleries, beautiful murals, and white-draped tables are all there. The pastry case is mirrored and beautifully lit. One is definitely in the presence of greatness. But it’s very friendly greatness.
Bill and I were obviously U.S. tourists, despite my valiant efforts to speak French and to exhibit politesse. But we were greeted with genuine smiles and shown to a nice table. And then . . .
“Chocolate chaud a l’ancienne” or l’africaine. According to Angelina’s website, the chocolate a l’africaine is a blend of four chocolates. It is rich, dark, heavy, and almost refuses to be poured. It’s almost like melted chocolate bars. The scent is intoxicating; it is essence of chocolate and heaven. The lovely waitresses bring the chocolate in a pot, with a vat of real, lightly sweetened, whipped cream (crème chantilly), water for antidote, and cups. Reluctantly, the chocolate flowed into our cups. It was more like a rich sauce than a drink. Then we piled clouds of cream on top. And the chocolate was so thick, so rich, so luscious that the whipped cream melted across the top, so we had chocolate, cream, and then fluff. My husband, who was then not-a-foodie, whispered “Oh. My. God”. I could hear the capital letters.
Angelina serves breakfast until 11:45 a.m., light lunches, such as club sandwiches, goat cheese and leek quiche, omelets (I’m trying the truffle omelette next time), croque monsier (of course), and other options. The pastry menu changes with the seasons and is magnificent in scope. Even a simple éclair (allegedly simple) is elegant, with choux pastry, bitter dark chocolate cream filling, and a glassy-smooth coat of chocolate icing. Check out the website for a list of seasonal pastries, each with a well-lit photograph and description.
There’s even a store, with take away pastries, fine sweet groceries, a bottled or powder version of the hot chocolate, teas, chestnut cream, chocolates, cakes, and other delights. A good strategy might be to rent an apartment and then fill it with goodies from Angelina . . . .
Present-day Angelina is revitalized and imperial in scope. There are seven Paris locations:
1. The original on the rue de Rivoli,
2. At the Louvre, in the Aile Richelieu (must be Museum visitor to enter)
3. At the Luxembourg Museum, 19, rue de Vaugirard, Paris, 6th
4. 40 Blvd. Haussman, first floor, Mode Femme, Paris 9th
5. Left Bank, 108 rue du Bac, Paris 7th
6. Palais des Congres, 2, Place de la Port Maillot, Paris 17th
7. Jardin d’Acclimation in the Bois de Boulogne (must be visitor to enter)
And, in keeping with the luxury of the experience, two locations at Versailles:
1. Chateau de Versailles, 1st floor of the Pavillion d’Orleans (must be visitor to enter)
2. Park of the Chateau de Versailles, Petit Trianon, entrance at the Gate Saint Antoine
I definitely recommend at least one visit to the original site, to complete a lovely day of exploring the Palais Royal and museum-going. One can almost hear the laughter and gossip of yesteryear.
Further, the gilt and glamour of the two Angelinas at Versailles are perfectly in keeping with the glorious new restoration work there. A nice cup of tea and a lovely pastry at Petit Trianon sounds just the ticket, n’est ce pas? A trip to Lyon would not be complete without a stop at Angelina’s either, at the Galeries Lafayette, Centre Commercial La Part-Dieu, 42 Blvd. Eugene Deruelle, Lyon, 3rd.
Finally, for the world-traveler who needs a taste of Paris in far-flung locations, Angelina has opened tea rooms in Japan, China, and Dubai.
Hours vary from site to site and from summer-winter, so please check the website or call first. The website is:
Drink up!