It’s Spring! And time to think about the beauties of France in bloom and birds on the wing. Which brings us naturally to the Camargue, a stunning nature reserve in Provence, on the Mediterranean coast. The Camargue nestles between two arms of the Rhone River which form a lush delta. A visitor to the area can experience a unique and fragile natural environment, discover how Provencaux lived in the 19th century, spot flamingos, boars, and bulls, canoe, hike, and then, after a nice nap, dine joyfully at a one-star Michelin Restaurant in a converted sheep fold. Nothing is wasted in France.
The Camargue is famous for its flamingos (flamants en francais), its wild horses, cowboys in black hats, and even bull fights. However, there are huge numbers of other birds here, including the Spotted Eagle, assorted sandpipers and plovers (including the Marsh Sandpiper), Marsh Terns and Herons, and others by the sea. Breeding birds here include the Collared Pratincole, 8(!) species of heron, the Gull-billed Tern, the Slender-billed Gull, and those flamingos. The Parc is so big it has micro-terrains, so an avid birder will have to explore north, south, and the beach. La Capelliere has a good exhibit on the local ecology. The flamants are located at the Parc Ornithologique de Pont de Grau, BTW.
La Maison du Parc (currently closed for renovations) provides a comprehensive introduction to this glorious treasure, in a modern setting (with gift shops).
I have proof: Martha Bakerjian was kind enough to permit me to use her photos. See for yourself.
To plan for your trip, may I suggest:
1. Get a bird book, such as A Birdwatching Guide to France South of The Loire, by Jacquie Crozier, Arleguin Press, ISBN: 1900159368 or L’Inventaire des Oiseaux de France (An Inventory of the Birds of France), Avifaune de France Metropolitaine by Philippe J. Dubois, et al. or Where to Watch Birds in France by Philippe DuBois, ISBN: 0713669802.
NHBS Environment Bookstore, a UK shop located in Devon, offers these and many, many other books and DVDs on wildlife, science, and conservation – including children’s books and speciality catalogs, such as its Ornithology Catalog. You can order on-line or email customer services or call +44 (0)1803 865913.
I went all over the site and my only problem is going to be finding the money to indulge. Books or a plane ticket . . . . . .
2. Explore the many lodgings in the area (see Mapping Europe). In less than 5 minutes, I found the hotel of my dreams: the Mas De Sylvereal, a 400-year old country house built on the foundations of a 12th century Abbey. It’s architecturally gorgeous – mellow gold stone, courtyards, gardens and grounds, and all mod cons – so it’s comfortable as well. What I found astonishing was that a double room was only about 60 euros (in October, granted). They have access to horseback riding, canoeing, and lots of other activities.
3. Make a reservation at La Chassagnette, recently awarded a star by Michelin. It’s located in an historic building (actually a renovated sheep fold) at Le Sambuc, 13200 Arles, tel.: 33 (0) 4 90972696. The restaurant features fine food in a lovely garden setting (see site for pictures). Like other fine restaurants on the Alice Waters model, La Chassagnette grows much of its own vegetables and herbs, including local specialities such as Le Poireau, part of the lily/garlic family. Chef Armand Arnal young (only 31), enthusiastic, respectful of the grand traditions of French food, but eager to explore new approaches. Chef Arnal trained with Alain Ducasse, spending seven years with him at his restaurant in New York. Chef Arnal is part of the Heureuse Camarge (loosely translated “Happy Camargue”), a group seeking to blend organic agriculture, gastronomie, and food production into a sustainable economic base for the Camargue. If it takes eating a thousand dinners at La Chassagnette to make a difference, let’s get started.
BTW, menus and a wine list are posted on-line. Reservations can be made on-line. You could also sign up for a cooking class.
http://lachassagnette.blogspirit.com/
4. And, because at least half the fun of any trip is in the planning, explore the official sites and check out goeurope for more information, links, and fun:
Bottom line: A trip to the Camargue can be a quick and memorable sight-seeing trip or a more leisurely ecotour with fine French food, French history and culture, cooking classes, and the chance to deeply experience old and new France. Either way, it’s a win.
Final tip: The mosquitoes have landing lights. Bring powerful repellent and anti-itch.
The South of France – sigh of delight.