I just learned about a neighborhood called Little Jaffna, which is predominantly Indian and Sri Lankan. It is roughly triangular, located in northeastern Paris, and borded by three Metros: Gare du Nord, La Chapelle, and Louis Blanc. The rue du Faubourg St. Denis runs through it. Apparently, it is somewhat funky, i.e., not Chanel-chic, but welcoming and fun. There are shops selling saris, jewelry, Indian music, beauty parlors, and of course, Indian and Sri Lankan restaurants. When I was last in Paris, I loved the Indian food there. Indian food is a good way to find vegetarian options in a country that still cherishes its feudal hunting heritage.
In an cosmopolitan mixture of homages, you can visit Paris’s first Hindu temple and get your eyebrows transformed into a perfect arch on the same street, rue Philippe de Girard. The temple is Sri Manicka Vinayakar at 72 Rue Philippe de Girard and accepts visitors every day. This temple is the source of the annual joyful Ganesh Festival, held in September every year (mark your calendar for 2009 – I already did!) The perfect eyebrow can be found at the Centre de Beaute Indien at no. 33. They use a technique called “threading” (en francais, “epilation de sourcil”). (I need to know more about this.) Little Jaffna appears to be yet another Parisian neighborhood that offers character and charm, plus food, shopping, worship, beauty, and new experiences.
Interestingly enough and by way of great contrast, the Place de la Bataille de Stalingrad is on the eastern edge of the area, reached by the Metro Stalingrad, which appears to be on the same line as Metro La Chappelle.)
Paris is indeed a moveable feast.